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‘HALLES DE LYON PAUL BOCUSE’ NEAR THE ROANNAIS by Lucy Franklin
I cannot believe that it has taken over 12 years of us visiting the wonderful city of Lyon to discover the delights of 'Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse', named after the famous chef and son of Lyon.
More than anything else, it has been a case of normally 'diving' into areas of Lyon with which we are already familiar, and which were within close proximity of our favourite, small, (and very good value-for-money)hotel – L'Hotel des Celestines – to be exact.
Time is often a constraint, so better to know where you are headed than risk uncertainty and disappointment .
Not on this occasion, though!!
Having been to the airport early one Sunday morning we were determined to investigate this locally famous indoor market. As on many times before, we were very pleasantly surprised.
The normal promotional, tourist brochures describe 'Les Halles de Lyon' as "Escale gourmande au royaume du goût" – translated as a "Gourmet pit-stop in the kingdom of flavour" (Yes, it doesn't quite sound as romantic in English!). It is, however, not far from the truth.
To be fair, from the outside, 'Les Halles de Lyon', with its modern glass frontage, could be just another contemporary office or retail showroom. Once inside, though, it is a 'paradise ' of French gastronomy! I can guarantee you will be enthralled.
There are some 58 establishments showcasing the very best of Lyonnais traditional cuisine and products. The atmosphere is lively and festive, and as the brochure says, " Les Halles de Lyon unites the whole food spectrum through as shared passion for excellence"
Entering the halls from Cours Lafayette, the first stall that caught our eye immediately was the chocolatier, Séve.
And wow! What a sight! I can never understand the difference between food shopping in France and with what we often have to 'put-up' with in the UK. You can simply not compare the two (unless, perhaps, you are visiting the likes of Harrods, or Fortnum and Mason, in London.) Okay, so Lyon is the second city of France, but even in London you would probably struggle to find such a similar, extensive, quality market under one roof.
Anyway, back to Séve, established in 1905.
What can I say!? Yet again, a rainbow of colour, quality, and spectacular design and display. So artistic, the array of handmade chocolates. The macaroons (in over 20 different combination of colours and flavours), are perfection.
The packaging is simply beautiful, and having tasted a sample of 'macaroon au citron' we were smitten.
Rather interestingly, they also had a selection of savoury versions of these macaroons to serve as aperitif, with flavours of foie gras, mushrooms, and olive.
As you pass down the various aisles you are visually inundated with magnificent displays of many varieties of produce – quality and perfection. Stall after stall, an abundance of cheeses, meats, charcuterie, fish, coffee, bread (of course!), flowers, bars specialising in 'fruits de mer', seafood, oysters and crustaceans – some, the likes of which I have never seen before!
We were also delighted to find that our local, Roannais-based cheese company, 'Fromagerie Mons', was well represented with their own beautiful displayed presentation in association with Fromagerie Marechal. We love this high quality company which also supplies many of the regions top reataurants.
Their selection of cheeses is mind boggling!
So, at 'Les Halles de Lyon', along with the other 5 fromageries, you really are, literally, spoilt for choice.
The 14, yes 14, charcuteries and epiceries offer an array of cured meats, saucisson, and various delicacies from around the world, including Italy and Spain, as well as France.
There is a large shop in the market called Bahadourian which offers exotic spices, herbs, and a myriad of sweet and savoury delicatessen products. Shelves are stacked high with interesting items from the 4 corners of the world.
Bahadourian also have a little 'restaurant exotique' next to their shop in the market ,called Insh'ka, which has distinct north African influences in its cuisine.
We had lunch here – chicken tagine for me and chargrilled lamb with rice for my husband, Brian. Superb!
Down one side of 'Les Halles' there are specialist stall, bars and restaurants serving oysters, and other various shellfish, all beautifully arranged on large platters with mountains of crushed ice – crabs, lobsters, sea anenomes, langoustine – the list is endless!
And it doesn't stop there! You can also dine at 'Les Garçons Bouchers', predominantly a meat restaurant, or at 'Resto Halles' , or at one of the 3 other alternative cafe/snack bars.
The choice is all yours!
There are also seven stalls selling fruit and vegetable, there are 2 fishmongers, a merchant specialising in the sale of foie gras. 'Pétrossian' sells only caviars, and 'Rolle' offers salmon, marinated and preserved. There are three purveyors of poultry and game, and if you are in need of more liquid sustenance, there are, of course, a good choice of wine merchants.
One could easily spend the day here at 'Les Halles de Lyon'.
Les Halles de Lyon is open week days from 8am to 7pm, and on Saturdays from 8am to 2pm. Closing only on Mondays.
The oyster sellers and restaurants are also open on Mondays, and during the evenings.
If you are spending a few days in this wonderful city of Lyon, then be sure to set aside part of your time to discover the delights of this amazing 'jewel' of Lyon, that is 'Les Halles de Lyon'.
Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, 102 cours Lafayette, 69003 Lyon
‘TABLE OUVERTE’ AT HALLES DIDEROT, ROANNE, ROANNAIS
At the beginning of October the 6th 'Roanne Table Ouverte' was launched with style and panache.
This exceptional October 'OPEN TABLE' event in the Roannais, where restaurants and producers in the region present their wares and offer a combination of special gastronomic, theatrical and musical events at their individual restaurants, was opened at 'Halles Diderot' (a fantastic indoor market situated in the centre of Roanne).
Purefrancenow has already introduced and reviewed the Halles Diderot in editorial during the last year on our 'News, Reviews Blog'. You can visit this introduction now at 'Les Halles Diderot'.
Halles Diderot could not really be a better place for starting this year's October fun and gastronomy in the Roannais.
And judging by the number of people queuing to get in for the first evening event it was going to be a resounding success!
Many local producers and products were well represented, including cheese, meat, poultry, fish, charcuterie,, confiture, wine, bread, confectionery, chocolate, and much more.
There were gastronomic delicacies on offer at each 'stall', and all served with the normal French conviviality and enthusiasm. It's going to be a great October here in the Roannais!!
ROANNAIS RESTAURANTS COMMIT TO PUREFRANCENOW, ROANNAIS
During the last 3 months a number of well-known Roannais restaurants have committed to promoting their establishments and cuisine on the Purefrancenow website in our 'Roannais Restaurants Section'.
We believe, of course, that this is an excellent decision.
For a start, these restaurants will be presented professionally and creatively on the Purefrancenow site, and some of them have already had free editorial and reviews written and published in the Purefrancenow 'News and Reviews Blog'.
Not only that, but they will all be 'Actively' recommended to all our holiday visitors, leisure travellers, and business contacts visiting and travelling to the Roannais region.
Purefrancenow will also be covering these restaurants throughout the year in various editorial features on our website, which has over 40,000 page visits per year (Google Analytics).
These establishments, and any other businesses featured on the Purefrancenow website will also have the opportunity of being part of our UK promotional coverage, and editorial activities which provide over 2.5 million potential 'viewers' per year.
Incredible! But, true!
The quality and service provided by these excellent Roannais restaurants is superb. Each with its own individual approach to both traditional and gastronomic cuisine.
These first series of restaurants reflect the wonderful variety which is available throughout the Roannais region in the Rhône-Alpes.
The magic, too, of the beautiful Roannais countryside truly complements what these restaurants have to offer.
These, and other high quality restaurants of the Roannais have also been covered separately in editorial through our 'News, Reviews, Blog' section – such as the famous 3 Michelin-starred restaurant, La Maison Troigros, and their bistro restaurant, Le Central, and also their new, exciting, auberge-style restaurant, La Colline du Colombier. Visit our 'Restaurant' Blog section for some interesting reviews on all these top gastronomic restaurants.
Just visit www.purefrancenow.com and go to our 'Roannais Restaurant Directory' for more detailed information on all of these excellent establishments.
They are all worth a visit! And there's even more to come!!
RESTAURANTS IN THE ROANNAIS
Purefrancenow during 2008 has launched 'The Roannais Directory' on their very successful website, specialising in the promotion of the Roannais region in the Rhône-Alpes.
www.purefrancenow.com is dedicated to 'shouting out' the gastronomic pleasures to be discovered in this beautiful, but under-discovered, region in France.
It is an exceptional place for high quality cuisine of both classic, traditional food, but also that of the high quality, gastronomic, 'haute-cuisine' of the likes of La Maison Troisgros ( 3 Michelin-starred restaurant in the centre of Roanne). But also much, much, more!
There is a vast choice of all types of cuisine to suit the occasion and the 'pocket'.
In fact, prices are incredibly reasonable, particularly in the many superb family-run restaurants which feature very strongly throughout this delightful part of France.
This obvious good-value-for-money in no way detracts from the overall quality of food or conviviality of the service.
Purefrancenow, with over 12 years of direct experience of the Roannais, has visited, and reviewed many restaurant establishments here.
We know, personally, many of the patrons and 'chef de cuisine's' of individual restaurants in the Roannais, and those situated in the main township of Roanne.
We stand by our assessments, descriptions, and recommendations of all the restaurants which appear on our site, both as editorial reviews in our Purefrancenow News and Reviews Blog' , or those restaurants listed within our special Roannais Restaurant Directory.
The Roannais region is proud of its gastronomic heritage, and this extends to all areas of food and drink – Confectionery, Chocolate, Patisserie, Cheese, Meat, Wine, Confiture, Olive Oil, etc., etc., along with exceptional cuisine.
www.purefrancenow.com has featured many businesses and establishments in the Roannais region, covering all aspects of this extensive gastronomy, and individual products and services.
There is a wealth of information available to the discerning leisure traveller, and businessman who is interested in good, quality food, and some of the best products in France.
We believe in the Roannais, and cannot over-emphasise its incredible variety of special gastronomic secrets waiting to be discovered. All situated amongst some of the most stunningly beautiful countryside in France.
Find out more, and visit www.purefrancenow.com.
Their 'Gourmet Week-ends' or 'Celebration Events' oppportunities are also worth looking at!
OCTOBER ‘FRENCH PROPERTY NEWS’ IN THE ROANNAIS
Le Cuvage is back in the news again with the October issue of French Property News – the second 'Real Life' diary about the renovation and development of 'Le Cuvage', Brian and Lucy Franklin's 'Grand Design' project in the Roannais, Rhône-Alpes.
The next stage of their story in the October issue follows on from their discovery of Perreux, a medieval hill village in the heart of the Roannais, and their first entrée into France with the purchase of an old stables in a Chateau's woodland grounds.
They then moved on to a much bigger and more serious project – the complete renovation and conversion of an old wine-making barn ('pressoir'), dating back to the 1830's, and situated in the same extensive chateau grounds.
Following on from their impulse purchase of The Stables in Roanne in the Rhône-Alpes region, Brian and Lucy Franklin finished their renovation and conversion of this property within 2 years.
After 8 years, or so, of using The Stables for holidays, in 2002 they were given the opportunity to buy a very large barn, less than a minute's walk from their current dwelling.
It was owned by Madame Arlette Siedel, the last French owner of the Château des Cresses, surrounded by all its wonderful woodland and farmland, which extended as far as the eye could see. Acres and acres of it!
The Cuvage (actually, a 'pressoir' – wine-making barn) was massive. Over 700 sq m, with a roof apex height of over 7 metres! All set within the original château grounds of over two acres.
Mme Siedel used to rent the place out for winter storage for half a dozen caravans.
After several reconnoitres, Brian and Lucy Franklin, agreed with their French friends, Adeline Vu Van and Jean-Francois Bretton to fully assess the possibility of buying this enormous building and developing it together.
Lucy' mother, Juliane, was also intrigued about the potential of a joint venture, and encouraged them to investigate further. Even at 75 years of age, she was also getting excited about a possible new life in France, and quickly offered to invest in the project!
With the extremely successful renovation and conversion of 'The Stables', and their excellent relationship they had with their French friends, they felt considerably confident that they could create something wonderful with 'Le Cuvage'.
We'll you keep posted on the next stage of their intriguing story next month.
Watch out for the November issue of French Property News. It's worth a look!
LUNCH AT ‘LA COLLINE DU COLOMBIER’, IGUERANDE by Brian Franklin
At last, Purefrancenow officially visits 'La Colline du Colombier' the famous 'Maison Troisgros's amazing new restaurant.
The occasion (and a very good excuse for the visit!) was a friend's 50th birthday.
It was celebration rather than commiseration, and we thought it a great surprise and opportunity to have lunch at this exciting new 'eatery' (or 'auberge', I should say).
Purefrancenow has recently written about this new restaurant on our 'Blog' 'News' and 'Reviews section which you can visit at Purefrancenow Review 1
Anyway, I continue with our journey of discovery at La Colline, which was a superb experience. the whole environment and situation of this restaurant-auberge is a delight.
A beautiful countryside setting with incredible views, all set within an original ancient farm enclave. The exterior gardens are still, in effect, a 'work in progress', but the sensitive development of the traditional farm buildings and the incredible architectural, interior design of the huge main barn which houses the restaurant and its kitchen) is absolutely remarkable.
When you visit this restaurant you are involved in a total experience which impinges on all the senses, not just those of taste and smell – vision, touch, sense of space!
Calm, efficient, convivial service by young girls in country linen habbards is rewarded with the normal excellence expected of the 'Troisgros' influence on its cuisine.
The whole presentation and imagery of decor and food is one of smart, high quality simplicity with a marvellous mix of the traditional and contemporary.
Our meal was a joy – simple, quality country food cooked superbly, and presented with a contemporary 'touch'.
The sun was shining, so we had coffee on the terrace, and thoroughly enjoyed every minute of our stay.
In fact, we stayed as long as possible to maximise our time there!
I almost had to drag my wife away from it all!
The birthday treat , too, was a great success, and our friends, Dale and Clare, left with fond memories, and some interesting photographs!
No words can fully describe this magical place, which is why I have included a montage of images to reflect the style, fun, and originality of this new extension of the Troisgros empire, here in quiet backwater near the little village of Iguerande in the Brionnais, just across the border of the Roannais.
The overall country site of La Colline du Colombier is quite extensive. Gite-style accommodation is also provided at the original farmhouse and pigeonnier.
More dramatic, however, are 'Les Cadoles'. three individual, contemporary, highly designed, architectural structures of wood, steel, and glass with extraordinary, curved zinc roofs, built on steel stilts, overlooking the surrounding countryside. These are special guest apartments for visitors who want to stay in the region for at least 3 nights.
These structures have been carefully positioned not to intrude upon the ancient style of the farm buildings, but to creatively contrast with their traditional, natural location.
I quote from the Troisgros website on these 'Cadoles': "Three little contemporary houses, built of wood, canvas and wool, on stilts, like little nests blending into nature. One seems suspended in the air, the second is terraced and nestles between two ancient oak trees, and the third is in a garden under the shelter of an old apple tree. Each has a bedroom with one large bed, a bathroom, a small kitchen and large living space opening onto a wide balcony which overlooks the unspoilt countryside. There is also a wood-burning stove for when the day's turn cool"
Intriguing, beguiling, and inviting! We all wanted to book-in right away! I am thinking that we will be visiting La Colline du Colombier sometime very soon. Purefrancenow will certainly be recommending our friends, holiday visitors, and business contacts to take a look, and enjoy the hospitality of this amazing place!
www.troisgros.fr la-colline-du-colombier@troisgros.com